Iguana Care

CARE OF GREEN IGUANAS

Iguanas are active in the daytime and like to spend most of the day climbing in trees. They have acute vision, hearing, and sense of smell. Young iguanas grow approximately 15 - 30 cm per year and do not reach sexual maturity until three years of age. Most iguanas can live thirteen to fifteen years (with appropriate care), reach up to six and one-half feet in length, and weigh up to fifteen pounds. Poor diet and environment are the leading causes of disease in iguanas.

HOUSING

Aquariums and other plexi-glass/glass enclosures with polyurethane-sealed wood are suitable for iguanas. Due to their fast growth, custom-made cages are quickly needed. When choosing material for floor coverings, hygiene is more important than aesthetics. Appropriate materials are unprinted newspaper, butcher paper, paper towels, astroturf, and indoor/outdoor carpeting. Cage linings should be changed at least once daily. Do not use materials such as pea gravel, kitty litter, crushed corncobs, or wood shavings. These trap moisture and filth, allow bacteria to incubate, and also can be ingested.

Inside the cage should be a water container; a "hide box" such as a cardboard box, clay pot, plastic plant, etc.; and objects to climb on. Cage wall surfaces should be smooth to prevent abrasions. Water should be available at all times and changed daily. Daily cleaning and weekly disinfecting of cages and containers is essential. Use a dilute clorox solution (one part bleach to thirty parts water) to clean. Lysol and pine oil cleaners are harmful to reptiles.

Optimal environmental temperature should range between 85 F and 103 F. A thermometer should be placed in the cage to get accurate temperature readings. A focal source of heat should be provided so that a temperature gradient allows the iguana to regulate its own body temperature. I do not like hot rocks because iguanas will not move away from heating devices even when they are being burned. Heating pads can be placed under part of the cage (there should be no direct contact with the animal). Electrical appliances should carry a valid "UL approved" mark. I also recommend purchasing devices that will shut off current if there is failure in the appliances or wiring. Ideal humidity for iguanas is thirty-three to sixty-six percent (33% - 66%).

Iguanas must receive direct sunlight to benefit from its UV component. Ultraviolet light is necessary to properly absorb dietary calcium and to produce Vitamin D. Window glass and plastics filter UV light. Therefore, iguanas must be housed in screened or wire enclosures during exposure to direct sunlight. Be sure to provide a shady area to avoid over heating. An alternative to direct sunlight is an artificial light source (Sylvania Design 50-GTE or Chroma lamps-GE) and a UV light source. UV light should be provided at a rate of 20 watts per 3 to 6 cubic feet of cage space for a maximum time span of eight to ten hours daily. Light periods should be ten to twelve hours’ daylight with a gradual increase in the number of hours in the spring and a gradual decrease in the fall/winter. A basking area should be placed one and one-half to two feet from the light source.

Iguanas should be caged separately because they are not very sociable and are territorial. Caging iguanas together invites aggression and fighting.

Young iguanas are herbivores and should be fed a primarily vegetable diet twice daily. Vegetable foods should not include iceberg lettuce or fruit cocktail, as these have low nutritional value. Good vegetables to feed are dark green and yellow vegetables (chard, romaine, broccoli, spinach, alfalfa sprouts, beet, collard, mustard and turnip greens), carrots, peas, corn, squash, berries, apples, dandelions, and frozen mixed veggies. These foods should be chopped into small pieces, mixed thoroughly, and refrigerated in an airtight container. Just before feeding, sprinkle a calcium and reptile vitamin source over the food. Food should be removed from the cage before it spoils. Growing iguanas may also be fed "expanded" guinea pig or rabbit pellets and monkey chow (pellets allowed to expand by absorbing water).

Older iguanas eat approximately ninety percent (90%) vegetable foods and should be fed two to three times weekly. They can be offered the same foods as above. Dandelions (flowers and leaves), clover, rose petals, and flowers of hibiscus, carnation and nasturtium can also be offered. Be careful that these have not been sprayed with insecticide. I have heard reports of two iguanas becoming very ill after eating hibiscus flowers. It was not known if insecticides were involved. Fresh fruit (bananas, berries, apples, peaches, pears, and plums) can occasionally be included in the diet.

This is the most common disease of captive iguanas and is a result of inadequate diet. This problem is often also due to calcium and Vitamin D deficiencies resulting from inadequate exposure to direct sunlight or UV light and lack of vitamin/mineral supplementation. Symptoms include listlessness; enlarged, swollen lower jaw; difficulty eating; and firm, swollen limbs and tail. Paralysis of the rear limbs is common and sometimes the back, tail, or legs are fractured. Veterinary attention must be sought immediately to treat this successfully.

This disease results from Vitamin B1 deficiency. Treatment involves injection with Vitamin B1 and dietary improvement. The disease can also associated with mineral deficiencies as in metabolic bone disease.

This injury results from repeated attempts to escape. It can result in serious and often permanent deformities that can cause long-term problems. It is helpful to provide adequate visual security (hiding places). Dark paint or plastic film along the lower four inches of the enclosure's walls often inhibits pacing and rubbing.

These occur from contact with unprotected heat sources such as exposed light bulbs, heating pads, and hot rocks. Veterinary attention should be sought because these burns can become infected and result in death.

Bacterial infections can occur anywhere in the body resulting in blister disease, dry gangrene of the tail or toes, mouth rot, abscesses, etc. These are usually due to inadequate diet and environmental conditions.

This is a bacterial infection occurring in the oral cavity and is often a sign of more serious internal problems. Early signs of the disease include swelling, inflammation and accumulation of pus within the mouth, increased salivation, and difficulty eating. Veterinary attention should be sought immediately.

Iguanas can have a variety of external and internal parasites. Visual inspection of the skin and scales should be periodically performed. Stool samples should periodically be examined for parasites by your veterinarian.

Care must be taken to firmly restrain the tail when an iguana is picked up and held. A veterinarian can treat soft tissue injuries and splint the fractured tail. The toes are also very vulnerable to injury. Care must be taken when picking up a panicked iguana from its cage, especially those housed in screened or wire cages.

I cannot stress enough the importance of proper husbandry and feeding practices in keeping your iguana healthy. You should also be aware of the potential diseases and health problems that your iguana can have. Above is only a partial list of the most common diseases that iguanas can have. Keeping a log of appetite, defecation’s, and activity can aid in early detection of problems. Iguanas should be evaluated by a veterinarian when first acquired and also have yearly examinations as part of a good preventive medicine program (bring a fresh fecal sample with you). When disease is suspected, seek veterinary attention immediately as delay often decreases the chance of a successful outcome.

This article is intended to be used only as a guide in caring for the Iguana. It is not intended to be an all-encompassing study on the Iguana and should not be construed as such.